This summer, life goes on and the food and drink are good at Trattoria Dario – the attractively decorated upscale Italian restaurant on South beach – a couple of months after the bistro was jolted by tragedy.
Mathew Pope, 31, a talented young man who had just joined the restaurant from The Tides this past year as its executive chef, unexpectedly passed away in early May as a result of a gun accident.
Since then, Dario Bordoli, the very hands-on proprietor who launched Trattoria Dario four years ago, has been even more hands-on, and the staff has rallied to maintain the restaurant’s high standard.
Bordoli was at the front door to greet us when we arrived last Friday evening, and while we often opt for a table under the fans out on the seaside patio, on this sultry night we decided to dine in the air conditioning of the red dining room.
Even before we placed our wine order, our attentive server Wesley brought us a basket of bread fresh out of the oven and a dish of olive oil and herbs. On this visit, I opted to start with the steamed clams ($15), my husband ordered the dirty oysters ($18), and our companion had a bowl of the Italian wedding soup ($8).
The steamed clams were prepared in a delicious white wine broth with sautéed garlic, tomato and onion. Good thing there was plenty of bread for mopping. My husband’s plump gulf oysters, topped with sour cream, caviar and raw onion, were sumptuous. The wedding soup also got high marks from our companion.
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